What is the cost of replacing a bathtub??

WHAT DOES IT COST TO REPLACE A BATHTUB?? - Bath Art Refinishing.com

Replacing a bathtub is time consuming and messy and usually involves 3 tradesman. Replacing the tub with a new one may involve a tile setter, a plumber and most likely a carpenter to repair unavoidable damage to the sub flooring and surrounding areas. A recent survey estimated the cost between $1,800 and $3,000. You can save up to 70% by having BathArt Refinishing refinish your old tub. - Bath Art Refinishing.com

Replacing an existing bathtub with a brand new one can often involve more time and money than one might imagine. Several issues come into play that some people often do not think about when considering bathtub replacement :

• If the bathroom is small, it may be necessary to remove the toilet, sink, and cabinets before there is room to take the old bathtub out.
• If the original tub is very old, it may be necessary to replace much of the original plumbing. This requires hiring a professional plumber, which adds to the cost of the project.
• Many old bath tubs were installed during construction of the house, and so there may not be enough room to get the old tub out and the install new one in with the walls in place. If this is the case, it may be necessary to open up a wall in order to get the job done.
• Most new bathtubs differ in size from their older counterparts. If your new tub doesn't exactly match the dimensions of the older one, it will be necessary to remove and replace the molding and floor covering on which the tub sits. This may also mean removing or replacing floor tiles to match the new dimensions.
• Often during bathtub removal, wall tiles are damaged or cracked. These will also need to be replaced.
• Depending on where you are located, it may be necessary to obtain permits or licenses before you can proceed with this type of remodeling project.

As you can see, bathub replacement of an old bathtub can be an expensive and time consuming project. With bathtub refinishing, all these problems can be avoided, and you can have a new bathtub at a fraction of the cost and time spent: There is no need for removal of other bathroom fixtures like sinks or toilets to make room to get to the bathtub. - Bath Art Refinishing.com

• There is also no need to replace original plumbing or to remove or replace original tile.
• In fact, tile can be refinished along with bathtub to bring a brand new look to the entire bathroom.
• You don't have to worry about any size discrepancies between your old bathtub and the replacement.
• You also don't have to worry about cutting holes in walls to get the old tub out or the new one into the bathroom.
• Bathtub refinishing does not require any special licenses or permits and bathtub replacement does.

Avoid the hassle, time and expense of replacement by refinishing your bathtub with BathArt Refinishing!

REVIEW THE FIGURES BELOW, DONT REPLACE IT! REFINISH IT! - Bath Art Refinishing.com

Framing Detail	Figure 1. The walls surrounding your bathtub will be framed something like this. If the wall is load-bearing (meaning it helps support the house structure), you have to support the remaining studs when others are cut out. Do not cut the studs until the wall is properly supported. A ledger may be used to support the tub or it may be supported by clips attached to the studs. Before you buy the replacement bathtub, make sure the new tub will fit into the space and make sure you can move it through all doorways.
	Figure 2. Disconnect drain, waste, and overflow pipes by loosening locknuts. Tub strainer screws out.
	Figure 3. Remove wall covering to expose ledger (if present) and release tub support clips. Wear safety glasses while removing wall tiles.
	Figure 4. Tub may rest on ledger strip. If so, lift it off the strip when you remove the old tub. Tub may be held with hanger clips, which have to be loosened or removed before the tub can be taken out.
	Figure 5. You may have to remove the tub from the side wall. If so, remove the wallboard from framing members, shoring up the wall with 2x4s before making cuts. Remove pipes, if needed.

Installing the new tub
The procedure for installing the new bathtub is almost the reverse of taking out the old one. We will assume that the new tub is approximately the same size as the old one; therefore, the piping and fixture will align properly. If not, the piping will have to be modified to match the new tub before it is moved in. Also check the wall surfaces.
You will have to install a new wall surface or patch the old so it rests on the flange of the new tub once the bathtub is in its final position. Use cement backerboard under tile in the tub area. Normal drywall cannot withstand the extreme moisture in these locations. Do not paint cement backerboard.
1. With skids in position and a helper to assist you, move the new tub into the tub space. Align the water supply and drain pipes accordingly.
Level the tub when it is in its final position. Lay the level along the rim of the tub and add shingle shims along the bottom of the tub to level it. Use enough shims to stop any rocking or instability. Then connect the tub to the hangers, adding hangers for support, if necessary (Figure 6).
2. Connect the drain and water supply pipes. The slip connection is simply pulled down (or up) on the drain pipe and the slip nuts tightened.
3. The drain in the tub is seated in plumber's putty before it is pressed into place and the strainer cap is tightened (Figure 7).
The lift rod for the drain stopper may have a turnbuckle type arrangement. You turn the turnbuckle to adjust the linkage so the drain stopper seats properly into the drain opening in the bottom of the tub (Figure 8).
4. The hot and cold water faucets are screwed onto the fittings on the supply pipes; use joint compound on the male threads only to seal the threads as the fixtures are tightened. An escutcheon usually fits over the faucet openings and is fastened with a set screw. To complete the project, screw on the hot/cold faucet handles (Figure 9).
5. Measure for the tub spout from the face of the drain nipple in the wall to the face of the wall. Then measure from the threaded coupling inside the spout to the edge of the spout, plus about 1/2 to 5/8 inch. If the spout is too long or deep to accept the threads, you will have to increase the length of the nipple.
6. If you had to cut the pipes to remove the tub, replace the pipes, going back to the first connection you can find and working toward the tub from this point. Reinstall any other fixtures you may have had to remove. Turn on the water supply and check the lines for leaks. Make adjustments as needed.
7. Finish the wall around the tub. If you have to replace the wall around the tub, we recommend that you use cement backerboard. Regular drywall may be used on the other side of the framing. Add new framing where the old was cut to make room for the tub removal. Apply the drywall, tape and sand it, and then finish the wall.
You may want to mark the panels next to the baseboard in case you have to remove the panel again for repairs.
Tile or paint the wall to complete the project.

	Figure 6. Move in new tubs on skids and with a helper. Tub flange rests on a ledger of hanger clips. Level the tub when in final floor position.
	Figure 7. A spring-type bathtub drain has a rocker arm that works off a lever in overflow plate. Assembly is removed by taking off the plate.
	Figure 8 . To adjust the rocker arm, turn the "turnbuckle" type fitting with pliers and reseat in overflow and drain pipe. Adjust rod until stopper fits perfectly.
	Figure 9. Thread faucets into housings on supply pipes. Put on escutcheons and the handles.
	Figure 10. The faucet spout attaches to a threaded nipple extending from the water supply pipes. A lift-gate diverts water from the spout to the shower head.
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